The city of Banjarmasin is the center of Banjar culture, a native community that has existed for almost 500 years. There are many things you can explore in Banjar culture. Culinary is one of those.

On the previous article, we have mentioned several foods from Banjar culinary that you should taste while you are in the city. Now, we would like continue that list so you have a complete reference for your culinary tourism when you visit Banjarmasin one day.

5. Ketupat Kandangan

Ketupat Kandangan is another popular dish traditionally from Banjar cuisine. The dish mainly consists of ketupat (bland rice cake) and snakehead fish poured with gravy made from coconut milk and various spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, turmeric, shallot, garlic, cardamom, etc.

To cook Ketupat Kandangan, the snakehead fish first needs to be roasted fish until it turns crispy. Then, it is boiled along with coconut milk and other spices. The gravy of this dish is thick and has strong taste.

A Simple Serving of Ketupat Kandangan (Source: Flickr. Credit: Banjarmasin Box)
A Simple Serving of Ketupat Kandangan
(Source: Flickr. Credit: Banjarmasin Box)

This delicious dish is originally from Kandangan district. That is why it is named as Ketupat Kandangan. Coming to the district, you will easily find many street stands or humble restaurants that serve this food. But if you don’t have time to visit there, you can also buy it at any other places in Banjarmasin city such as at Jalan Pangeran Antasari, Jalan Pasar Lima, Jalan S. Parman, and of course, at the floating market on the river every morning.

There is a unique way to eat Ketupat Kandangan. Traditionally, people eat it with their bare hand instead of using spoon or fork. Most people in Kandangan still do it this way. But if you don’t feel comfortable with it, you can kindly ask the vendor to provide spoon and fork for you.


6. Nasi Kuning & Masak Habang

Nasi Kuning (Yellow Rice) is a serving of rice steamed with coconut milk and turmeric. This food is common to be found in Indonesia.  It is usually served with various complements; depend on the region where it is. In Banjar, Nasi Kuning is mostly served with Masak Habang.

Masak Habang is a side dish cooked with red seasoning. That is why the dish is called Masak Habang which means “Cooked Red”. The seasoning usually includes coconut milk, tamarind, shallot, garlic, ginger, galangal, and much more.

The dish used in Masak Habang could be anything such as fish, beef, chicken, egg, etc. Although it is red colored, Masak Habang is not always spicy. In fact, it is rather sweet and very savory. If you wish it to be spicy, you can always add some sambal (chili paste) that is usually been prepared separately as extra condiments.

Nasi Kuning with Chicken Masak Habang (Source: Flickr. Credit: Sefa Firdaus)
Nasi Kuning with Chicken Masak Habang
(Source: Flickr. Credit: Sefa Firdaus)

Traditionally, Nasi Kuning Masak Habang is wrapped with banana leaf as it could enhance the aroma, making it more mouth-watering. If you wish to taste this delicious dish, you can go to:

  • RM Cempaka on Jalan A Yani KM 4, Banjarmasin
  • Warung Rahayu on Jalan Pramuka, Banjarmasin
  • Warung Nasi Kuning Andalas Rahmat on Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan, Banjarmasin


7. Laksa Banjar

Laksa is a spicy noodle soup in Malay area (Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore) that came from the culture of Chinese-Malay. Laksa is famous to have strong aroma and taste due to the usage of plenty spices such as lemongrass, galangal, shallot, garlic, chili, and much more. There are plenty variations of Laksa, depending on where it is from. One of them is Laksa Banjar, which is indeed originally from Banjarmasin.

Laksa Banjar (Source: Credit: Dinas Pariwisata Banjarmasin)
Laksa Banjar
(Source: Credit: Dinas Pariwisata Banjarmasin)

What makes Laksa Banjar different than other variants of Laksa is the usage of snakehead fish. On Laksa Banjar, snakehead fish is shredded and mixed with coconut milk gravy. The fish creates tempting aroma and richer taste. The noodle on Laksa Banjar is slightly different as well. It is got shaped into a hank, making it looks like a clod of threads.

There are several places that you can visit if you wish to taste this food. Here are some of them:

  • Laksa Mama Yani on Gang Rindu, Jalan Belitung Darat, Banjarmasin.
  • Kertak Hanyar Market on Jalan A. Yani, Banjarmasin
  • Floating Market every morning. There will be many vendors selling various menus for breakfast. Laksa Banjar is one of them.


8. Itik Panggang Alabio

Itik Panggang means Roasted Duck. It may sounds not special as you can buy roasted duck in any other place around the world. But actually, Itik Panggang from Banjar culinary is quite unique. First, the duck used on this dish is only the species of Alabio. This species of duck has unique texture and better taste than any other species of duck.

A Serving of Itik Panggang Alabio (Source: Credit: Wahyudin Noor)
A Serving of Itik Panggang Alabio
(Source: Credit: Wahyudin Noor)

The seasoning to roast this duck is unique as well. To cook this dish, people of Banjar uses various spices such as shallot, coriander, ginger, garlic, palm sugar, and much more. Soy sauce is also added while the duck is roasted with charcoal. Itik Panggang is served along with sweet sambal (chili paste).

To get the best flavor of Itik Panggang Alabio, you can visit its most original place on the district of Amuntai. It will take about 4 hours to drive there from the city. And if you don’t really have that much time, there are several places in Banjarmasin that you can go to:

  • Depot Madezon on Jalan Gatot Subroto 4
  • Warung Mak Haji on Jalan Pekapuran or Jalan Pangeran Antasari
  • Itik Panggang Tanpa Tulang Pal 1 on Jalan A Yani


9. Amplang

Amplang is crispy fish crackers traditional from Banjar. Traditionally, it is made from flatfish (Notopterus chitala), a fish commonly live on swamps or rivers. This species of fish is easy to be found on the rivers in Banjarmasin. As time went by, other species of fishes are also used as flat fish is now harder to find.

Now, you can also find Amplang made of wahoo fish or snakehead fish. Even so, the condiments have never been changed. Those new variations of Amplang are very well sold, but mostly people still like the original ones as it has the most authentic aroma and taste. The texture is also tenderer.

Amplang as Complement for Fish Dish (Source: Flickr. Credit: Khaliff Clifford)
Amplang as Complement for Fish Dish
(Source: Flickr. Credit: Khaliff Clifford)

Amplang is sometimes also known by the name “Kerupuk Kuku Macan” which literally means “Tiger Nail Chips”. Amplang is delicious to be eaten as light savory snack or as complements to several kinds of dishes. Most Amplang are produced at home industry but are well distributed to entire city. You can buy it on a plastic package at several food stores or stands in Banjarmasin or anywhere in Kalimantan. Sometimes, you can also buy it at other city outside Kalimantan.


Touring around a place to explore its attraction would feel more amazing if you also have a culinary adventure on that place as well. By tasting new variant of foods, we could get a new experience to remember. This activity is very possible in the city of Banjarmasin where there are many choices of foods from the Banjar culture.

Not only you can taste those while you are in the city, but some of the products are even possible to bring back home so you could share it with your friends or family. The culinary of Banjar could also be enjoyed on other towns around East Kalimantan as well.